Esterillos Oeste: Surfing, Serenity, and La Sirena

Last Updated: June 8, 2024

Costa Rica’s central Pacific coast is filled with busy beach towns, but there are still some quiet stretches of sand to be discovered. One such place is Esterillos Oeste. This small town just south of Jaco is well known to surfers and locals but has remained off the tourist map so far. But with its proximity to San Jose, gorgeous beach, and restaurants only steps from the sand, it may not stay that way for long. In this post, we’ll share why Esterillos Oeste is worth a visit and give you some insight into what to expect for activities, restaurants, and hotels.

Destination Guide - Esterillos Oeste, Costa Rica

Orientation

Esterillos Oeste is located off coastal Highway 34, about 1.5 hours from San Jose Airport and 20 minutes south of one of Costa Rica’s most developed beach towns, Jaco.

Although Jaco is only a short drive away, Esterillos Oeste remains quiet and peaceful. The town is surrounded mostly by patches of rice fields, grazing cattle, and thick tropical rainforest.

Once you arrive in the modest town center near the beach, you will find a couple of small grocery stores, a few restaurants, no-frills lodging, and a mix of simple homes with larger houses in the surrounding hills. Mostly Costa Ricans live in Esterillos Oeste, but there is also a sizeable population of expats from around the globe.

Playa Esterillos Oeste, Costa Rica
The beautiful Esterillos Oeste Beach

There are two turnoffs for Esterillos Oeste. The main one is the first if you are coming from the north. Just past Esterillos Oeste (west) is Esterillos Centro (center) and Esterillos Este (east). These are separate, even smaller, beach communities with a handful of restaurants and accommodations.

Continuing south, you will reach the busy Manuel Antonio/Quepos area in about 45 minutes. Here, you’ll find one of the most well-known national parks in Costa Rica and a plethora of tourist amenities.

We highly recommend a rental car if you’re staying in Esterillos Oeste so that you can explore the surrounding area. Be sure to check out our Rental Car Discount to save 10% on a car and get free extras.

Activities in Esterillos Oeste

Playa Esterillos Oeste – Beach and Tidepools

The beach is by far the town’s biggest attraction.

Along the gray sand, you will find local families barbecuing under the palms, fishermen putting out their boats, and surfers lined up for the next big wave.

The beach is long and it’s easy to find a spot all to yourself. A beach trail/road runs along the ocean, making it convenient to pull your car right up.

With larger waves and riptides, the beach isn’t great for swimming, but you can wade in the shallow waves.

For calm water, check out the tidepools on the northern end at low tide. These are a great place to bring kids to see the crabs and fish living in the small pools.

In between rock formations, there are a few perfect places to take a dip in the tranquil water. Here is a link to the tide chart to plan your visit. Low tide is best for exploring the tidepools.

The Tidepools at Esterillos Oeste
The awesome tidepools on the northern end of Esterillos Oeste

To access the tidepools, you can park near the town center and walk along the beach.

Even easier is to turn right on the paved road after Super Sol market and follow it until the end. Here, you’ll find another parking area right in front of the tidepools.

When parking, make sure not to leave anything in your car. While the community is overall safe, car break-ins do happen occasionally.

Watch our video to get a sense of how big the tidepools are.

Mermaid Statue

Another notable attraction at Esterillos Oeste is the bronze statue of a mermaid jutting out of the tidepools. You can walk out to La Sirena at low tide to get a picture, or just view her from the shore at any tide.

This mermaid has quite a story. After being washed out to sea during a bad storm in 2023, the community came together, raising money for restoration and putting her back in her place once again.

La Sirena, the Mermaid, at Esterillos Oeste
La Sirena, the Mermaid who looks over the town of Esterillos Oeste

Surfing

Playa Esterillos Oeste is a well-known surfing beach. It is the most popular of the Esterillos beaches, but usually doesn’t get too busy.

Experienced surfers come here to take on the beach break, but it’s also a good spot for those just starting out. You will find a few different surf shops in town that offer lessons and rent boards. One good option is Aloha Surf.

Horseback Riding, Adventure Tours, and Wildlife

Not far from town are some great options for tours.

Horseback riding tours will take you through the tropical forest to explore the countryside, see wildlife, and even visit waterfalls. A nearby adventure park offers thrill seekers zip lining, waterfall rappelling, and ATV. And, of course, there are a multitude of options in Jaco and Manuel Antonio, including catamaran tours, kayak/SUP tours, and even art tours.

For wildlife, in Esterillos Oeste you will see Scarlet Macaw parrots flying overhead, monkeys, sloths, iguanas, and many kinds of birds.

To see the most during your visit, we recommend also checking out Manuel Antonio National Park for the day. This park has thick tropical rainforest filled with birds and animals.

Check out our Jaco and Manuel Antonio tours pages to see some more options for things to do in the area.

Scarlet Macaw in Esterillos Oeste, Costa Rica
A Scarlet Macaw in an almond tree

Restaurants in Esterillos Oeste

Esterillos Oeste has a few small local restaurants and new options have started popping up, offering more contemporary food.

Los Almendros

Los Almendros is the most well-known restaurant in town and for good reason. The cuisine is fresh and made with local ingredients and house-made sauces. Asian-Caribbean fusion dishes like Pad Thai, Caribbean-style Chicken, and Jamaican Jerk fill the menu. Also features a fresh catch like mahi mahi or tuna and has vegan and vegetarian options. Located one block up from the beach, near the soccer field and under the almond trees.

Restaurante El Patio

Restaurante El Patio offers casual fare and friendly service. They have lots of traditional Costa Rican dishes as well as pizza, tacos, and other Tex Mex options. Open for lunch and dinner. Located next to Super Sol grocery store, about a hundred meters from the beach.

Soda Margarita

For authentic Costa Rican food, there’s Soda Margarita. This super rustic restaurant is run by a local lady who serves up delicious traditional meals for breakfast and lunch. We loved the arroz con camarones, a fried rice plate that was perfectly seasoned and full of shrimp. Located in a neighborhood on the very northern end of town. Look for the path to the left before you reach the parking area. The small restaurant is set back (near a large tree) and has a palm thatched roof.

Restaurant Recommendations in Esterillos Oeste - Soda Margarita
Rice with Shrimp at Soda Margarita

Accommodations in and Around Esterillos Oeste

Being a small town, Esterillos Oeste doesn’t have a ton of accommodations. A few simple hotels and campgrounds are spread out along the beach. Airbnbs and vacation rentals can be found seaside or up in the hills just outside town, many with ocean views.

The Spot

Backpackers love the Spot, one block inland. This simple hostel has colorful rooms made from old shipping containers. Visitors love the owner who makes the place feel like home. Private rooms with AC, $50-75/night. Check Rates and Availability Here.

The Spot hostel Esterillos Oeste
Common area at the Spot

La Dolce Vita

La Dolce Vita is another budget-friendly option in a great location. The basic hotel is right on the beach in the center of town. Rooms are small and simple, but have AC and a kitchen for cooking. One room has a direct ocean view. La Dolce Vita has a small pool. $55-85/night (double occupancy). Check Rates and Availability Here.

Higher End Options Nearby

Alma del Pacifico Hotel

Our pick for a high-end stay is Alma del Pacifico Hotel in neighboring Esterillos Este. This is a beautiful boutique hotel with 20 villas and bungalows on the ocean. The architecture of the hotel has unique artistic flair, with bright colors and lots of curvature. Some rooms have direct ocean views and private plunge pools. $200-700/night. Check Rates and Availability Here.

Hotel Recommendations in Esterillos, Costa Rica - Alma del Pacifico
Garden Bungalow at Alma del Pacifico Hotel

Marala Hotel

A newer hotel in the Esterillos area is Marala. Marala is located off the highway a short drive to town, but is situated on a hill so has nice ocean views. The small hotel has a handful of nicely decorated rooms as well as a couple of more basic bungalows. The infinity pool has a lovely sea view. A good restaurant serving upscale cuisine is located onsite. $105-400/night. Check Rates and Availability Here.

Marala Hotel Esterillos Oeste
Boutique hotel, Marala

Conclusion

We lived in Esterillos Oeste for several years and loved the beautiful natural surrounds. Our whole family loved to soak up the laid back beach vibe and enjoy the good food at the seaside restaurants. If you’re coming to the central Pacific coast, make sure to check it out too!

Last Updated: June 8, 2024

Have a question about visiting Esterillos Oeste? Ask us in the comments below.

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Looking for more information to plan your trip to Esterillos Oeste? Check out these posts:

Rainmaker Nature Reserve: About 45 minutes from Esterillos Oeste is Rainmaker, a nature reserve with hiking through dense rainforest, hanging bridges, and waterfalls. Plan your visit with this post.

Jaco: Costa Rica’s Booming Beach Town: Learn what Jaco offers for activities and restaurants. Includes some gorgeous secluded beaches, info on the weekly farmers market, and more.

Rental Car Discount: Esterillos Oeste is best explored with a rental car so that you can check out other area towns and things to do. Use our discount to save 10% and get free extras

 

29 Comments

  1. Love the country, people, wildlife, food and beauty of the place….hate the humidity. I’m from the high and dry desert of the western USA and was not prepared for that single unpleasant issue. How do you acclimatize?

    1. Hi Greg, We think it just takes time for your body to get used to the humidity. We definitely tolerate it more now than when we first moved here. That being said, now that we live at the beach, we run our AC quite a bit just to take some of the moisture out of the air.

      There are places with less humidity in the mountains. Those might be better for you but they will still be more humid than you’re used to probably.

      1. We’ve thoroughly enjoyed visiting Costa Rica twice and will be visiting again in 2020. Our visits were/will be in January, when it’s hot and seemed to be dry. We stay at a house near Sámara that has no air-conditioning – just ceiling fans and always-open windows. We’ve never felt the humidity to be unbearable. Does the location and time of year make a big difference?

  2. We also loved that area when we lived in Escazu.Alma del Pacifico was our favorite hotel.I always thought of Esterillos as a secret beach,even though it’s not far from Jaco.It’s also only an hour away from Escazu,so it was a quick weekend away for us.Esterillos Beach was one of my favorites in Costa Rica

  3. We loved it there and spent time exploring the houses up the hill; halfway thinking this would be where we retire. It was obviously a favourite of expats.

  4. Wow…if you think Esterillos Oeste is rustic now…..when I first “found” it 20 years ago it was really rustic. But other than some paved roads and a new restaurant or two it is (thankfully) the same town it was back then. Friendly people with a true pura vida approach to life. Couple the locals with the beach and the wildlife….throw in a reasonable cost of living and life is good! We finally built a home in Esterillos Oeste 2 years ago and can not say enough about the tranquility and peace found here. The few gringos who are living here blend in and have not disrupted the beauty of this Tico place we call home.

  5. Hello! We are planning a trip to the area and have not visted Costa Rica before. Can you tell me how much you would suggest budgeting for meals at places like Soda Margarita? We like to visit local spots and to eat the food of the place we’re visiting. Thank you!

    1. Hi Molly! I’m in Esterillos right now and a meal at Soda Margarita with a smoothie is 3,000 colones or about $5. You should absolutely go there, the food is great and the staff are so nice!

  6. Thanks for the great information. My family and I will be visiting this area next week. It will be our first time to Costa Rica. We are looking forward to all the activities, restaurants, beaches and beautiful scenery and wildlife.

  7. Hi! Thanks for this write up. My family is visiting CR for the first time & we’re renting a VRBO in Esterillos Oeste—we can’t wait!

  8. We have a trip planned to Esterillos Oeste. Has it changed much since this article was written?

  9. Hi- our family of 5 will be leaving Monteverde and heading toward Manuel Antonio for 4 days/3 nights. Would you reccomend taking one of those nights and spending it here instead before heading to MA?

    1. Hi Anna, It’s about a 4-hour drive from Monteverde to Manuel Antonio so definitely doable in one day. But if you want to break up the drive, yes, you could stop for a night in Esterillos. We would probably just go the whole way to Manuel Antonio ourselves to have the full 3 nights there since there is so much to do.

      1. Hi again! I’m getting more concerned about spending 15 days under a rain poncho and driving through mudslides. We are starting off on nov9 to Arenal for 5 days, then Monteverde for 4, down to Manuel Antonio for 4 and end in drakes bay for 2 nights (heading back to sjo for one night before departing). Since rains are heaviest as we head south (?), I’m really wondering if we should cut out drakes bay, not to mention it’s 4.5 hours to get back to sjo with 3 preteens in tow. Thoughts?

        1. Hi Anna, Yes, we would probably cut Drake Bay if you’re coming in mid November since that is the rainiest region. The rest of the itinerary should be okay that time of year. You could spend the extra time in Esterillos or Jaco, which have better odds for good weather than if you went farther south.

          1. thank you! we will switch to Jaco then MA. one more question- if the weather gets rainier as we head south, should we spend more time in Jaco before we go to MA?

          2. another thought came to me so if you can consider this in your other response. since i am able to cancel my accomodations (still early) with no penalities, would you reccomend scrapping the pacific south of jaco/MA, and instead staying north in Samara? so our entire trip could be arenal–>monteverde–>samara–>SJO (unless i can change our flights out of liberia).

          3. Hi Anna, The weather could be a little better in Samara that time of year so that is probably the safest bet if you have flexibility with changing hotels. Generally, the farther north you go along the Pacific coast, the drier it gets. Samara is still not too far to get back to San Jose Airport after too.

  10. Hey Guys! Great content! Thankyou!.We are thinking about retiring in the Central Pacific, specifically in this area, and wanted to know your thoughts about the hospital in Parrita.

    1. Hi John, We have used the hospital in Parrita and it is pretty good. It’s a new, fairly modern facility. We received good treatment there. For anything major, we would still use the private hospitals in San Jose, but Parrita is fine as an emergency.

      1. We will be in Esterillos for two weeks during December with our adult children and two grandchildren (ages 2 and 2 1/2). Is the hospital in Parrita open for 24-hour emergency medical service? If not, where is the nearest location for this service?

          1. Thank you for this information. Unrelated to medical, but related to our stay in Esterillos, can you recommend a local chef/cook who would come to our rental house to cook dinners for us? Thanks again.

          2. Hi Jane, We don’t know of any chefs in Esterillos that would do that. We would try asking the host for your rental house as they should have some connections.

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