Montezuma: A Bohemian Beach Town

Last Updated: February 9, 2023

Not long ago, Costa Rica was known for its bumpy dirt roads that led only the most determined explorers to pristine beaches and virgin jungle. While many destinations have been built up significantly since those days, Montezuma has maintained its off-the-beaten-path feel. We first visited this laid back beach town over ten years ago and have made several trips back since then. In this post, we’ll give you all the details you need to plan your visit, including recommendations for the best hotels, activities, and restaurants.

Montezuma, Costa Rica Destination Guide

About Montezuma

Montezuma is located on the very southern coast of the Nicoya Peninsula. This area of the country is more remote, making Montezuma a little difficult to get to and, therefore, not overly crowded. The people who make the trek are typically a mix of backpackers, young families, and couples looking for a romantic getaway.

The draws of Montezuma are its many quiet beaches, thick forest, and wildlife like monkeys, butterflies, and birds. One of the things that makes it unique is its almost bohemian feel. Though small, Montezuma is a vibrant community, made up of like-minded expats and locals. Adding to this, Montezuma has an impressive selection of restaurants serving food from all around the world (see our picks below). 

Montezuma, Costa Rica Destination Guide
The main drag in Montezuma

Getting There

Visitors have several options for getting to Montezuma.

Public Bus

If you’re on a budget, the public bus is the best choice. When we first visited as tourists, we took the direct bus from San Jose and really enjoyed it. Although it is a long trip (around 6 hours), it includes a scenic ride on a ferry.

Shuttle or Rental Car

Those wanting to save time should drive themselves or take a shuttle van

Tips for Driving to Montezuma

If you’re planning to drive, as of 2022, most main roads around the southern Nicoya Peninsula are now paved. Unless you’re staying at a hotel or vacation rental in the hills or outskirts of town, you probably don’t need a 4×4 vehicle. Still, if you plan on doing some exploring, we recommend an SUV for the higher clearance and a 4×4 in rainy season. Once you get off the main routes, it can turn to dirt and get bumpy fast.

Here is a link to our Rental Car Discount page to save 10% through one of Costa Rica’s most reputable companies.

If you’re traveling from San Jose International Airport or the central Pacific coast, you can speed up the trip by taking a ferry from Puntarenas across the gulf and then continuing by car from Paquera. For more information about the ferry, read our post Taking the Puntarenas-Paquera Ferry.


Montezuma’s jungle-backed coastline has a lot to offer for activities. While you could spend days staring out at the crashing waves or looking overhead for monkeys, there’s plenty to do if you want to be active. 


Just north of town is Montezuma’s most popular beach, Playa Montezuma. Here, you will see people sunbathing on the sand, camping under the palms, or taking a swim in the choppy water.

If you are up for a little adventure, continue walking north to explore more beaches and secluded coves. About 15-20 minutes away is a spot marked with dozens of makeshift rock sculptures called cairns and also a small waterfall. If you keep going (bring some water and snacks), you’ll follow a trail on and off the beach to Playa Grande, about 45 minutes away. Playa Grande is a long, beautiful beach and one of the best in the area for surfing. The walk out to Playa Grande is backed by really nice jungle, so keep an eye out for animals and birds. 

Montezuma, Costa Rica Destination Guide
Playa Montezuma

Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve

For more serious hiking, head to Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco. This was Costa Rica’s first national reserve and its creation helped to shape the country’s conservation efforts. Besides being an important part of history, there is abundant wildlife to see, including monkeys and birds. At the end of the trail, you’ll also find a remote beach where you can take a dip to cool off after the long hike. See our post Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve for more info.

Montezuma Waterfalls

Probably the most popular activity in Montezuma are the waterfalls just south of town. The Montezuma Waterfalls are a set of three cascades that have something for everyone. While some just relax or picnic at the largest waterfall (almost 80 feet/24 meters tall), more adventurous types jump and swim at the other two.

The falls can be visited in two different ways. One includes a cool hanging bridge and the other goes up the riverbed. We did both on a recent visit and wrote about it in our post Montezuma Waterfalls: Best Ways to Access.

Montezuma, Costa Rica Destination Guide
View from the top of the middle waterfall

Snorkeling at Tortuga Island

A popular tour from Montezuma is a visit to nearby Isla Tortuga (Tortuga Island). This small island is about one hour away by boat and has volcanic rock structures that create favorable snorkeling conditions. There’s also a white sand beach that most operators take you to for a BBQ lunch. The ride out to the island is a tour in itself as you take in the beautiful coastline. Sometimes dolphins, turtles, or other marine life are spotted from the boat too.

Isla de Cabuya

This tiny island sits right offshore in the small fishing village of Cabuya, just south of Montezuma. It’s so close to land that you can even walk to it at low tide! Isla de Cabuya is best known for having a cemetery, and a walk through the gravesites is a unique and spiritual experience. The entrance is marked by a whitewashed archway and throughout the island you will see rows of agave plants and seashells adorning the graves.

Be sure to check the tide chart before heading out and don’t get stuck when the water level rises as the island is rumored to be haunted.

Montezuma, Costa Rica Destination Guide
View of Cabuya Island from shore at low tide. You walk out from the area to the right.

Restaurant Recommendations


The diverse menu at Puggo’s has something for everyone, from barbequed meats, to sushi, soups, and many Middle Eastern favorites like moussaka, falafel, and tandoori chicken. The BBQ ribs and sushi were very good, but our favorite was the hummus and crispy fried olives appetizer. The atmosphere at Puggo’s is also really nice. Now located in the Aves Hotel & Resort near Canopy Montezuma.

Montezuma, Costa Rica Destination Guide
Sushi at Puggo’s


This was one of our favorite restaurants on our first visit to Montezuma. The fact that it is still around is a reflection of the innovative and delicious dishes that they serve. Exotic curries, soups, seafood, kabobs, and high-quality steaks are among the variety of cuisine you’ll find at Cocolores. The atmosphere is great for couples with candlelit tables at the ocean’s edge, but fine for families too. Open for dinner only.

Chelo Pizzeria

When this place first opened, we couldn’t dig up any online reviews, but decided to give it a try anyway. We’re so glad we did. Formerly L’Angolo Allegro Pizzeria, Chelo’s Italian cuisine was really authentic. They have a large pizza and bruschetta menu as well as salads. We tried the bruschetta with locally smoked fish and would go back just for that. The pizza was also great. Open for lunch and dinner. 

Montezuma, Costa Rica Destination Guide
Pizza and bruschetta at Chelo

Ice Dream

Head to this coffee shop in the center of downtown for a quick pick-me-up or meal. Their expressos, lattes, cappuccinos, and iced coffees will give you a nice jolt. They also have casual food like baked goods, croissants, breakfast sandwiches, salads, and veggie rollups as well as omelets and gelato. With a good Wi-Fi signal and A/C, you could easily spend a couple of hours sipping some java or having a long lunch.

Hotel Recommendations

Budget Hotels

Montezuma Pacific Hotel

On a visit to Montezuma several years ago, we arrived in town without accommodations reserved. We were lucky to find a room at Montezuma Pacific Hotel. This is a simple, no frills hotel but the rooms have everything you need, and the owner, Carlos, is very friendly. The hotel is located on a quiet side road but only a minute walk to restaurants and shops. Double rooms, including A/C and hot water, around $50. Check Rates and Availability Here.

El Mariposario Montezuma Gardens

El Mariposario Montezuma Gardens has a lot to offer other than just the hotel. It houses the butterfly garden, which you can access for free as a hotel guest, and also Clandestina restaurant, which brews its own craft beer. Finding out that we could grab a delicious craft brew at any time of day was all we needed to know when picking our lodging on a recent visit to Montezuma. Rooms are simple but we found ours on the second floor to be quite comfortable. $50-90, includes a good breakfast. Check Rates and Availability Here

Montezuma, Costa Rica Destination Guide
Upstairs room at El Mariposario

Mid-Range Hotels

Amor de Mar

Amor de Mar is a nine room hotel just outside town and directly across from the river that leads to the Montezuma Waterfalls. They also have two villas that offer a kitchen, A/C, and a private porch. The property faces the ocean and has several comfortable areas for lounging and taking in the view. Rooms are rustic but nice and most have private verandas. $90-300, includes A/C. Check Rates and Availability Here

Montezuma, Costa Rica Destination Guide
Hotel Amor de Mar

Casitas Sollevante and Casa Frangipani

These are separate properties located on the same road, up a hill outside town. They both offer amazing ocean views and are good options if you’re looking for some privacy. Casa Frangipani ($100-200 double occupancy) has four contemporary villas set in the jungle. Casitas Sollevante is a slightly cheaper option ($125-200), and has a mix of standard rooms, villas, and houses. Both are best accessed with a rental car. Check Rates and Availability for Casa Frangipani and Casitas Sollevante.

High-End Hotels

Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang is the most high-end option in Montezuma. Located on an isolated part of the beach north of town, this resort offers private bungalows for a romantic couple’s getaway as well as family suites and tent cabins. As we toured the beautifully landscaped grounds, we saw wildlife like monkeys, birds, and agouti. To make it even more appealing, the property overlooks a secluded beach. There is also an onsite pool and a restaurant that focuses on organic, healthy cuisine. $130-420 double occupancy, includes breakfast and dinner. Check Rates and Availability Here

Montezuma, Costa Rica Destination Guide
View from a common area at Ylang Ylang

If you’re looking for a beautiful place to relax and unwind, the beaches and jungle of Montezuma may be the perfect fit. Although it may seem out of the way, it is actually a great place to start your trip in Costa Rica. From Montezuma, you can easily head north to more laid back beach destinations like Samara or Nosara, or grab the ferry to busier beach towns like Jaco or Manuel Antonio.

Have a question about visiting Montezuma? Ask us below. 

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Last Updated: February 9, 2023

Check out the links below for more practical info for planning your trip to Costa Rica:

The Costa BallenaIf you’re looking for an off-the-beaten path feel, you might also like the Costa Ballena. This region on the southern Pacific coast has amazing wildlife, waterfalls, and surfing.

La Fortuna: What to Expect from Costa Rica’s Most Popular DestinationLa Fortuna can be easily combined with a visit to Montezuma. It’s a great area to experience volcanoes and get in any adventure activities you’d like to do.

Best Hotels Near SJO – We’ve stayed at and toured many different hotels near San Jose international airport. Read our recommendations for the best places to start or end your vacation.