Drake Bay: Costa Rica Unplugged

Last Updated: November 17, 2020

Set among the largest, most biologically diverse section of lowland rainforest in Central America is the magical destination of Drake Bay, Costa Rica. Here, you’ll forget all the stresses of your everyday life. With jungle full of exotic wildlife and warm ocean waters that are a playground for marine life, it’s hard not to feel at peace and connected to nature. While this remote village is not a destination for everyone, if you’re the type of traveler who smiles instead of squeals when a gecko scurries across your wall, Drake Bay might be perfect for you. In this post, we share some of our favorite Drake Bay activities, restaurants, and lodges to help you plan your visit.

Drake Bay Beach | Two Weeks in Costa Rica

Orientation

Drake Bay is situated in southwestern Costa Rica on a tract of land called the Osa Peninsula. The Osa is quite remote, and aside from one other hub (Puerto Jimenez on the eastern side), is comprised of only small towns and villages spread out among bountiful rainforest and mangroves. Corcovado National Park, one of Costa Rica’s most famous and biodiverse parks, covers a significant portion of the land and attracts scientists and nature enthusiasts from around the globe.

The village of Drake Bay sits on the Pacific side of the peninsula but is well protected from ocean swells due to its position in a wide cove.

Just off the town’s main beach, Playa Colorada, are a handful of tourism businesses, including small restaurants, lodges, and a few municipal buildings like a school and medical clinic. Other accommodations are spread out along the coast in either direction or nestled into the hills. Some of these are accessible by only a jungle trail or short boat ride.

Tip: There are no banks or ATM machines in Drake Bay and many businesses don’t accept credit cards, so be sure to stock up on cash before you arrive.

Drake Bay Town Picture | Two Weeks in Costa Rica
Drake Bay Town Center

Getting There

One reason Drake Bay is so special is that it is difficult to access and gives you that feeling of being away from it all.

Driving

Although during certain times of the year it is possible to drive to Drake Bay, we do not recommend it because of rough roads and river crossings that wouldn’t be covered by your rental car agreement.

Once you arrive, you’ll see that a car won’t be very useful anyway since almost everything is accessible by walking on the beach, through the jungle, or along the few dusty dirt roads.

Tip: Be sure to bring a flashlight for getting around after dark. The main road in town has some street lighting but side roads and trails are not well lit.

Boat Taxi

The best option for getting to Drake Bay is to take a boat taxi from the mainland town of Sierpe. This is a great experience that we have really enjoyed ourselves. These boats are about 20 feet long and covered for shade. They leave from the small riverside town of Sierpe and bring you down the beautiful Sierpe River, through mangroves, out to the ocean, and along the coastline to Drake Bay.

Boat Taxi to Sierpe | Two Weeks in Costa Rica

The trip takes about an hour and costs $15-25 per person. Boat taxis leave the docks in Sierpe twice daily, at 11:30 a.m. ($15) and 3:30 p.m. ($20).

Typically your lodge in Drake will help with the arrangements, but most people leave from either the Las Vegas or La Perla del Sur restaurants. Get there early to find your boat captain and enjoy the river view because it is beautiful.

For your return to Sierpe, boats leave Drake Bay at 7:30 a.m. ($15) and 2:30 p.m. ($20).

Parking: If you want to leave your rental car in Sierpe, there are a few secure parking lots near the docks for around $6/night.

For those not renting a car, you can get to Sierpe via a shared or private shuttle van. Pricing varies depending on where you are coming from. Contact us through our Shuttle Booking page to get a quote.

Tip: If you’re taking a boat taxi, be prepared for a beach landing in Drake Bay. There are a couple of docks in town, but for the most part, boats pull right up on the sand near your lodge. You will need to wade through ankle- or sometimes knee-deep water to get to shore. Make sure to wear sandals or shoes that can be easily taken off or get wet.

Traveling with young children? If you’re coming with younger kids, we recommend bringing a lifejacket. The boats typically have only adult-sized options, and at times, the ride out into the ocean from the rivermouth can be rough. We recommend this lifejacket for babies and this one for toddlers.

Activities in Drake Bay

Once you arrive in the village, nature surrounds you. Drake Bay is the kind of place where you could swing in a hammock all day and still see more amazing wildlife than almost anywhere else in the world. But to make the experience even better, there are lots of outdoor activities that will show you even more.

Here are a few of our favorites.

Corcovado National Park

For those looking to see wildlife, Corcovado is a must. This huge 417 sq. km. (161 sq. mile) area of protected primary and secondary rainforest will awe you with its grandeur. Corcovado is one of the only places in Costa Rica where you can see all four native monkey species and is also home to Central America’s largest land mammal, the Baird’s Tapir.

You can explore this remote park on a multi-day trekking trip, but most travelers visit just for the day. Tours leave by boat from the main beach early in the morning and arrive at either the San Pedrillo or Sirena Ranger Stations. A registered guide will lead you though the trails for a half-day hike, helping you spot rare birds and animals, all while teaching you about the forest.

Read about our experience spotting amazing wildlife at Sirena Ranger Station here.

Baird's Tapir | Two Weeks in Costa Rica
The Baird’s Tapir is one of the most difficult mammals to see in Costa Rica. We caught this one napping.

Snorkeling and Scuba Diving at Cano Island

From the shores of Drake Bay, you can just see the shape of Cano Island offshore. This 300 hectare (741 acre) uninhabited island is about 16 kilometers (10 miles) from Drake Bay and is known for great snorkeling and scuba diving.

Beautiful coral reefs and ledges showcase amazingly large schools of colorful fish. Some people even get lucky enough to spot dolphins or whales during their visit. On our last snorkel tour, we spotted a whitetip reef shark near the ocean floor!

Cano Island is also an important archeological site and was once a burial ground and trading post for Costa Rica’s pre-Columbian indigenous cultures. 

Jungle Night Tour

Drake Bay is one of the best places in the country to strap on a headlamp and go on a night tour. If you thought there was a lot of wildlife to see during the day, you’ll be amazed at what you can see when the sun goes down. Frogs, insects, snakes, and sleeping birds are just a few examples.

There are many options for night tours in Drake Bay, but we recommend Tracie the Bug Lady, a biologist and insect enthusiast. You can learn more about our tour with Tracie here.

Hiking to Playa San Josecito

Those looking to do some exploring on their own might enjoy the long (2.5 hrs. each way) hike to Playa San Josecito. San Josecito is also a great snorkeling beach so be sure to bring along a mask to explore the reefs.

This remote beach can be accessed by walking along the jungle trail at the south end of town (follow signs) that weaves onto several secluded beaches. In the jungle surrounds, you’re likely to see lots of birds and even animals like lizards, monkeys, or coati (a raccoon-like animal). You’ll have to wade through or take a small rowboat across the Rio Claro before finally ending up at this amazing beach, but it is totally worth the effort.

Playa San Josecito | Two Weeks in Costa Rica
Playa San Josecito

Tips: The hike to San Josecito is fairly flat but very hot so be sure to bring plenty of water and whatever food you will need for the day. Also bring a flashlight in case you’re still hiking back when the sun starts to set.

For more information, be sure to read our separate post Playa San Josecito, Hiking and Snorkeling near Drake Bay.

Hotels and Lodges in Drake Bay

Drake Bay may be a remote village but it does have a sizeable selection of accommodations. No-frills cabins, comfortable eco-lodges, boutique luxury resorts, and even tent camping on the beach are all available.

When picking a lodge, be sure to inquire about its location. Budget options tend to be concentrated in the main area of town, close to restaurants and the two small grocery stores. More moderate and high-end options are generally located outside town, some within walking distance, others much farther away and primarily accessible by boat.

If you stay at one of the more off-the-grid hotels far from town, keep in mind that you will be relying on the hotel for your meals and activities. These hotels offer packages, which while convenient, are often more expensive. If you’re on a budget, we recommend staying in town to be closer to the more moderately priced restaurants and cafes.

Tip: Be sure to book your accommodations in advance. While some destinations in Costa Rica are set up so that you can wander through town and eventually find someplace to stay, most of the lodges in Drake Bay are smaller and have only a handful of rooms, which tend to book up fast. 

High-End Lodging ($250+)

La Paloma Lodge

La Paloma is our choice for a high-end lodge in Drake Bay. It offers 11 well-equipped rooms and ranchos tucked into the rainforest with ocean views. The spaces have an upscale feel and are made with beautiful native wood. Two-story ranchos are available for families and groups. We have had several clients stay here in the past and they have all remarked on how excellent the service and food were. La Paloma is a 20-minute walk to the main area of town and the beach. All rooms have A/C. Packages start at $980 per person for a 3-night stay and include all meals and tours to Corcovado and Cano Island.

We know the La Paloma property well. If you are interested in staying here, please contact us at bookings(at)twoweeksincostarica(dot)com with your travel dates and the number of people in your party. We can make all the arrangements for you and may be able to get you a small discount on your stay.

Recommended Hotels in Drake Bay - La Paloma Lodge
Room with an oceanview terrace at La Paloma Lodge

Copa de Arbol

Copa de Arbol is a newer property with 10 luxurious, air-conditioned cabins. If you’re looking to unplug, this is the place. It’s located far from town on the trail leading to Corcovado National Park and is accessible only by boat. The resort has a nice multi-tiered infinity pool, and there’s a gorgeous, nearly deserted beach just a short walk away. Rates start at $240 per person/night for double occupancy (includes all meals). Check Rates and Availability Here.

Copa de Arbol Hotel | Two Weeks in Costa Rica
Photo Credit: Copa de Arbol Hotel

​Aguila de Osa

Aguila de Osa is a small eco-resort set in the jungle near the Aguijitas River. It’s about a 10 minute walk to town and the beach. Rooms are built with native wood and are well-appointed with high ceilings and balconies. The hotel enjoys sweeping ocean views and has excellent food on-site, served family-style. Rooms are equipped with fans; the ones higher up the hill have the best breeze. Rates start at $245 per person/night for double occupancy (includes all meals). Check Rates and Availability Here.

Mid-Range Lodging ($100-200)

Hotel Jinetes de Osa

If you’re looking for a resort-type experience without the price tag, consider Hotel Jinetes de Osa. This budget-friendly hotel is a short 10-minute walk to town. The hotel has three types of rooms, some more modern with A/C, others with fans. Opt for a Suite for the best views and most space. Rates for double occupancy start at $70/night and include breakfast. An on-site restaurant offers breakfast, lunch, and dinner for an additional charge. Check Rates and Availability Here.

Recommended Hotels in Drake Bay - Jinetes de Osa
View from our Upper Level Suite at Hotel Jinetes de Osa

Pirate Cove

Pirate Cove has a mix of 10 funky bungalows, roomy cabins, and a few air-conditioned rooms. They’re located a bit outside town so most people eat at the restaurant on the premises. If you’re into scuba diving, their sister company is a dive shop. Packages with all meals start at $100 per person/night for double occupancy. Check Rates and Availability Here.

Recommended Hotels in Drake Bay - Pirate Cove
One of the cabins right on the beach at Pirate Cove Hotel

Las Cotingas

Las Cotingas is a locally owned affordable option right in the center of town. Although it is close to the beach and restaurants, it is set on a hill so more private. There are four simple but spacious cabins on the property, each with a deck. Some have ocean views so be sure to inquire. $80-150/night (no meals included). Check Rates and Availability Here.

Las Cotingas | Two Weeks in Costa Rica
Photo Credit: Las Cotingas

Budget Lodging ($20-60)

Martina’s Place

Martina’s Place is a friendly hostel right in the middle of everything. It’s on the main strip in town, just a few blocks to restaurants and the beach. A hand-painted sign outside gives the nightly rates, which you can’t beat: $20 for a shared dorm and $40 for a private room with shared bath. Martina also has a larger room suitable for families and a bungalow (each are around $50 for double occupancy). Fully-equipped common kitchen also available. Check Rates and Availability Here.

Casa Mariposa

If you’re looking for an authentic experience, stay with a Costa Rican family at Casa Mariposa. They’ve built several rooms off the main house and now rent them out at very affordable prices. We stayed with Karina and her family when they first opened and loved it. It was fun getting a glimpse into their everyday lives and we got to practice our Spanish every day. The rooms are rustic but clean and comfortable. Private rooms with a shared bath start at $24 (includes breakfast). Check Rates and Availability Here.

Drake Bay Restaurants

For those not dining at their hotel, Drake Bay has a handful of good, modestly priced restaurants. They’re all open air and very casual so don’t expect fine dining, but know that you’re going to get a solid, wholesome meal for less than $15 a plate. Here’s a list of our favorite spots.

Casa Tortuga

While much of the fare in Drake Bay is extremely casual, Casa Tortuga is a bit more refined. They have a wide-ranging menu with elaborate casados and pasta dishes, along with meat, seafood, and chicken specials, many of which are served with nicely balanced sauces. A popular item is the pescado entero, a whole fried snapper served traditionally on a banana leaf. Located on the road going to the airstrip near Cabinas Manolo.

Garlic Shrimp at Casa Tortuga

Bahia Azul

This soda in town serves up all the Costa Rican classics. Their arroz con camarones (rice with shrimp) is delicious and even impressed a local we were traveling with on a recent visit. Prices are very good for Drake Bay so this is a good option if you’re on a budget. Located in the center of town, just past the grocery stores if you’re coming up the hill.

Recommended Restaurants in Drake Bay - Bahia Azul
Arroz con Camarones at Bahia Azul

Mar y Bosque

This is another typical Costa Rican restaurant. It has a big menu and decent food. A big selling point is the new second floor, which looks out to the ocean. It opens at 5:00 a.m. if you need to grab breakfast before a tour and stays open through dinner. They have fresh fruit smoothies, homemade breads and pastries, and rich coffee made the old-fashioned way with a traditional chorreadorLocated near the grocery stores in the center of town.

Conclusion

The remote village of Drake Bay holds a special place in our hearts. As if it were just yesterday, we can still remember walking the long sandy beach in town, parrots flying noisily overhead, while talking about how simple and beautiful life was there. Fast forward to today and we have a completely new perspective, now living just a bit to the north. But even having lived and traveled all around Costa Rica, Drake Bay is still one of our favorite places and is as magical as when we first discovered it.

Last Updated: November 17, 2020

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Have a question about visiting Drake Bay? Ask us below?

Looking for more information to plan your trip to Costa Rica? Check out these posts:

Manuel Antonio Trip Planning: Manuel Antonio is a common spot to visit before Drake Bay since it is on the way. Read our detailed guide to learn about this popular destination, its abundant wildlife and plentiful amenities.

Off-the-Beaten Path Destinations in Costa Rica: If you love exploring the lesser known spots, you will want to check out our post with 8 more off-the-beaten-paths towns in Costa Rica.

Packing for Costa Rica: The Essentials – When visiting a remote destination like Drake Bay, it’s important to bring what you need. Read our packing guide for all the details.

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