Last Updated: August 19, 2026
Costa Rica is well known for its impressive wildlife, but some places offer notably better viewing than others. One such spot is the Cano Negro Mixed Wildlife Refuge near the country’s northern border with Nicaragua. This remote wildlife refuge is best accessed from La Fortuna or Bijagua. We recently took a boat tour along the river. In this post, we’ll share some of the amazing animals and birds we saw and how you can plan a visit.
About Cano Negro Mixed Wildlife Refuge
Cano Negro Mixed Wildlife Refuge (Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Mixto Caño Negro) is a large river and wetland ecosystem near the Costa Rica-Nicaragua border.
With an impressive 9,969 hectares (24,634 acres) of protected habitat, this national park hosts around 160 species of mammals, including monkeys, sloths, and even jaguars. There are 90 species of bats alone!
Birds are also abundant. The wetlands are an important stop for North American migrants that overwinter in the tropics. More than 300 different bird species have been identified at Cano Negro.
Our Tour Experience
Driving to Cano Negro
Our tour began in the town of La Fortuna near the base of Arenal Volcano. Here, we hopped into a small van with our tour guide, Alvaro, and a few other tourists. Alvaro explained that the drive to Cano Negro and the Rio Frio (Cold River) would take about 1 hour 45 minutes.
It was a long drive but far from boring. As we passed farm fields, small rivers, and patches of forest, Alvaro explained all about the area.
The farms, he told us, were growing yucca, cassava, and taro root vegetables. He explained more about each one, how they are planted and harvested, and what they are used for.
As we got closer to Cano Negro, Alvaro turned down a bumpy side road. We drove slower now, around the ruts and big bumps, and started to see some wildlife. There were wading birds and even small caiman (crocodiles) in the wet drainage basins along the road.
The Rio Frio
We soon made it to the tour operator’s base camp next to the Rio Frio. Outside, a few large pontoon boats were docked.
The Rio Frio, we learned, runs through the Cano Negro Mixed Wildlife Refuge and eventually flows into Nicaragua. Shortly after crossing the border, it connects with the enormous Lake Nicaragua.
The wide river was brown and murky from silt, with grand trees and thick shrubs along the edges. Oversized iguanas sunned themselves on the grassy bank near the boats.
Stepping out of the van, our group was led into a big building with some other small tour groups. There was fresh fruit, coffee, juice, and cold water waiting for us. We also met the other naturalist guides who would be with us that day. Along with Alvaro, there were two guides, both named Jason, and the boat captain, Max.
Cano Negro Boat Tour
First Sightings
Without even pushing off from the shore, our guides started to point out the wildlife around us.
On the left side of the boat, a big caiman was partially submerged, keeping a close eye on us.
In the nearby tree was a camouflaged bird called a potoo. Our guide Alvaro zoomed in with his scope. Potoos are some of the most interesting birds in Costa Rica. Their plumage looks exactly like tree bark, making them blend in perfectly.
As we began motoring down the slow-moving river, Max, the captain, steered us closer to the forest. Our guides pointed out iguanas and river turtles sunning themselves on logs.
We also saw monkeys. First, there was a troop of howler monkeys. These bigger blackish monkeys moved slowly through the trees. As the boat went under them, they let out loud bellows. Our guides told us these monkeys could be heard as far as 2 miles (3.2 km) away.
A larger male, the alpha, snapped branches and tossed them into the water below at us.
The Golden Monkey
Upon closer look, we noticed something strange about one of the monkeys. One of them looked different. Instead of a blackish brown, it had much lighter fur that was a gold/orange color.
Our guides explained that we were indeed seeing something special.
This monkey was a young female that they had seen before. She was born with a genetic mutation (recessive genes) that causes less fur pigmentation. So instead of having dark fur like the rest of the troop, she has a golden hue.
Jason explained that this is the only one they know of in the area but that there have been three or four reported in Costa Rica. In the whole world, there are only around nine monkeys like this. Other than the color, they are completely normal and accepted by the group.
Birds
After a long pause trying to get good photos of the golden monkey, Max throttled the boat slowly against the current. We saw more howler monkeys and many caimans but also a lot of birds.
Some that we identified were the Great Egret, Ringed kingfisher, Amazon kingfisher, Bare-throated Tiger Heron, Green Heron, Turkey Vulture, Montezuma Oropendola, Collared Aracari, Sungrebe, Wood Stork, and Anhinga. The Anhingas are interesting birds that have a bill that can spear fish. They are most often seen drying their wings on logs.
Our guides told us that birds congregate year-round in the wetlands but especially during dry periods.
Other Wildlife in Cano Negro
During the approximately two hours that we spent on the river at Cano Negro, we saw some other interesting wildlife as well.
On the underside of a tree branch we saw a family of long-nosed bats. They were sleeping together in a curved line. Jason told us that they position themselves this way to look like a snake. This keeps away predators. Each bat, we learned, can eat up to 2,000 mosquitoes per night!
We also saw many medium-sized green basilisk lizards. These are sometimes called Jesus Christ lizards because they can walk on top of water. Alvaro explained that their webbed feet create tiny air bubbles that help keep them on the surface of the water. With some speed, they can travel over the water for up to 6-8 meters (20-26 feet)!
There was also another type of monkey we encountered, the spider monkey. The troop of spider monkeys were much more shy than the howlers. As we watched them swinging through the branches with their long arms, our guides explained that these monkeys only have four fingers and that the fifth one was eliminated through evolution. Spider monkeys are harder to see in Costa Rica so it was really nice to be able to see a group of them.
Lunch
After returning back to the base camp, everyone was excited for lunch. The staff had been busy preparing a traditional meal called a casado (plates with rice, beans, chicken or vegetables, salad, and plantain chips). For the kids, there were either chicken or fish fingers. Vegetarian options were also available.
Chocolate and Sugar Cane Tasting
After a hearty lunch, we then got to try sugar cane juice and fresh chocolate, two of Costa Rica’s most important crops. The guides also served us freshly brewed coffee.
For those willing to try it, a shot of local guaro (liquor made from sugar cane) was also offered up.
This was just what we needed before the van ride back to La Fortuna and the perfect way to end our tour.
Booking a Tour to Cano Negro
If you’d like to book the Cano Negro wildlife boat tour through the same company we used and often send clients to, use the booking link below. Booking through us costs the same and helps support our website!
To see the other tours we offer in La Fortuna or around the country, visit our Tours Page.
Tour Cost
2026: $76 per person adults, $53 per person children ages 4-11. Rates plus 13% tax. Children under 4 are free.
2027 (Starting January 1, 2027): $82 per person adults. $58 per person children ages 4-11. Rates plus 13% tax. Children under 4 are free.
Time Offered
7:30 a.m. (pickup time at La Fortuna-area hotels and vacation rentals).
Duration
Full day tour. Return to La Fortuna around 2:45/3:00 p.m.
Children
Cano Negro is a great tour to do from La Fortuna with young children because you’re on a fairly large pontoon boat and the boat portion isn’t too long (around 2 hours). Our kids were 7 and 4 when we did it. Just be sure to bring some entertainment for them during the van ride.
Accessibility
The Cano Negro wildlife boat tour is handicap accessible and good for any age or ability. There is limited walking and the paths around the facility are suitable for a wheelchair. The boat has a sturdy metal ramp to board and there is very little movement when on the pontoon boat (no rocking or swaying).
What’s Included
Transportation from most La Fortuna-area hotels and vacation rentals, certified naturalist guides, snack, drinks, coffee, lunch, and tastings.
Have a question about visiting Cano Negro or want to share what you saw? Leave us a comment below.
Looking for more information to help you plan your trip? Check out these posts:
A Safari River Float in La Fortuna/Arenal – Here is another mellow boat trip to see wildlife but much closer to La Fortuna.
Palo Verde Wetland Boat Tour – This is a similar wildlife boat tour experience but in the Guanacaste region.
19 Unique Things to Do in La Fortuna – For much more to do in La Fortuna, check out this post!
Things to Do – Our activities category has over 150 articles, covering the entire country.
If we are only in Arenal for two days, is this full day tour worth it?
Hi Kristine, Unless you have young kids or are traveling with someone with mobility limitations, we’d probably pick something close to La Fortuna like the safari float tour so that you can do something else the same day. You can see basically the same wildlife on the safari float tour and it’s only 30 min. from La Fortuna.
We are staying in Bijagua. Is it possible to take this tour from there? Either by driving ourselves or be g picked up?
Hi Kimberly, This is the meeting point for the tour. It’s about 1 hr 45 min from Bijagua so kind of a drive. The Tenorio River would be closer for you. This is a tour that we book that usually includes transportation from Guanacaste but we could see if you could meet instead. If you want a boat tour, though, as opposed to a raft, Cano Negro is the best option. The price is lower too if you don’t get the transportation.
Can we book the Cano Negro tour without transportation and just drive ourselves there?
Hi Kimberly, Yes, you can book it without transportation and the price is a little less. This is the meeting point: https://maps.app.goo.gl/vcSs9C7iKQ1c7Hn69 If you’d like to book it, just make the request through our site and add a note that you’d like to self-drive and we will lower the price of the tour when we confirm it.
Hi! We are going to be in Arenal the week of April 20th and are interested in doing the boat tour. We would drive ourselves. It’s two adults and two six year olds and an 18 month old (would he be cheap/free?) how can we go about booking it? Thanks!
Hi Quincy, The baby would be free. You can book through our product page like normal and select Meet at tour company office in the Pickup Location section. Then add a Customer Note that you would like to meet directly at the river. We can adjust the pricing in our system before you pay so that you pay less for meeting there. We don’t collect payment until later when the reservation is confirmed. Here’s the link to book: https://www.twoweeksincostarica.com/product/cano-negro-boat-tour/
Hello there, how do you compare Cano Negro and Palo Verde? Which one is better in terms of wildlife?
Hi Sam, Both are great for wildlife viewing. I’d say that Cano Negro has a slight advantage because of the diversity of wildlife. You can usually see crocodiles, monkeys (several species), bats, and tons of different birds. Palo Verde has been really good too when we’ve visited, so really, you could do it where ever it fits best in your itinerary. We love the Palo Verde tour that we write about on our site. It’s probably one of our favorite nature tours because of the cultural element.
My husband and I are interested in driving ourselves to the river and taking the boat tour (our 19-month old throws terrible fits in vehicles and we’d like to spare people that). Can we have info on how to do that? We will be in La Fortuna next week (December 9-11, 2024).
Hi Melody, Yes, that’s an option! You can self drive to the starting location, no problem. The price is $50 pp adults + tax. Your baby would be free. The meeting time is approx. 10 am and the tour ends around 1 pm.
If you’d like to book it, just use the link for the regular Cano Negro tour with transportation and make a note that you don’t need pickup. We will then reduce the price in our system. Feel free to reply to this thread if you have any questions. Thanks!
My family and I are interested in this tour but we are already staying at an accommodation north of La Fortuna and would rather drive ourselves to the river rather than use the transportation to avoid extra drive time with two small kids. Do you know if there is an option to drive separately? If so, do you know what the address would be so I can determine how far it would be from our accommodations?
Hi Sarah, Yes, there is an option to book the tour without transportation where you meet at Cano Negro. Here is the map point. If you’d like to book it, just respond to this thread and we can send the price and other details by email. It is cheaper without transport. Thanks!
Hello, my husband and I are going to visit Costa Rica for a month next April. We planned to visit Cano Negro but we are still hesitating between staying in a hotel there for 2 nights (we would be arriving from La Cruz) and taking a boat tour with a local guide or doing like you and taking a guided tour of La Fortuna , our next destination.
What are the pros and cons between the two options?
P.S. your site is wonderful for planning a trip!
Sonia
Hi Sonia, We have never stayed overnight close to Cano Negro but there really isn’t much there so it may be better to just do Cano Negro as a day trip from La Fortuna.
Another option would be to stay a couple of nights somewhere like Maquenque Ecolodge. This isn’t at Cano Negro but is on a beautiful river with lots of wildlife so is a similar experience. That lodge has a few different activities that they offer, making it a good place to spend 2 or 3 nights. Hope that helps!
Hi Jenn and Matt I would like to book for two the camo negro boat safari. With independent transport. The date we are looking at is December 8, 2025
Hi Miriam, We are working on your order now and will send you a payment link once it’s confirmed. Thanks!
Hi Jean and Matt
I didn’t realize lunch was included we have dietary restrictions we are vegan can we have more fruit and chocolate instead of the lunch?
Hi Miriam, we just let the tour company know. I think they will have a vegan lunch option.
Hi Jenn and Matt,
I am interested in a Cana Negro boat tour that includes the wetlands (refuge). There are two of us (no kids). We need a ride from our hotel in La Fortuna. We want to do this trip on the 5th of March. We would be happy to join 3-4 people to bring the cost down. Please give me the total price for this option, as well as details of what it includes. If this is too expensive, we might just do the regular boat trip. Can you recommend a company that has small groups (not more than 10) and the price. Btw, is there a difference between the refuge lagoon and the river in terms of how it looks, wildlife and birds.
Thanks a lot,
Hi Lotus, The only Cano Negro tour we book right now only goes to the river, not the wetlands. We have actually never been to the wetlands ourselves so can’t compare the two. The regular river tour was excellent, though, in terms of wildlife viewing. The cost for a private tour in 2024 is $228/adults, $160/child ages 4-11 + 13% tax. The tour company doesn’t have an in between option where you could join 3-4 more people. It’s just the private OR regular group tour, which can be up to around 30 people if the boat is full. They do also have a canoe tour if you’d be interested in that. If you’re interested in booking still, just let us know and we can send you an email.
Is there a difference between the on-water tour provided by the various companies? What sort of vehicle is used to drive to/from the waterfront?
Please send me details; we are interested in early February for 2 adults.
Hi Katie, Let us know if you would still like information on this and we can send it by email right away.
Most tour companies take you in a shuttle van to the river. The boat portion of the tour is similar overall. We would pick a tour company to use based on the quality of their naturalist guides.
Who knew !
Now folks dont have to choose between LF and MA on a short trip. Arenal has it all !
Hi, thanks for the information, we would still like to do the trip. While I am happy to book through you, can you tell me who you went with so I can check the details of there full trip please. We will be four adults but just would like to see the details on their web site
Hi Mark, We’ll send you an email with the information now. Thanks!
Hi, we are visiting La Fortuna in November and are very interested in your trip to Cano Negro. Can I ask please if the boat will visit the lagoon in November or just stick to the river?
Or do some tours visit the lagoon and some not? If so can you recommend one who does visit the lagoon please.
We are happy to book this through you, but just want to clarify this first.
Hi Mark, the boat tour we did only goes along the Rio Frio. From our understanding some tours do visit the lagoon but it is seasonal and depends on the water levels. This year water levels have been low in waterways around the country so it might not be accessible by boat in November. Hope this helps, if you do end up wanting to book on the river tour, you can email us your info (date, number of people with ages of kids, and pick up location) at bookings(at)twoweeksincostarica(dot)com